Having lived in central Paris for six years, I have learned a lot about the ups and downs of being a Parisian.
I would go back in a heartbeat. But I also empathize with international visitors who arrive with a romantic vision of perfection, only to face a severe shock, known as “Paris syndrome,” when reality doesn’t match their expectations.
Don’t let this discourage you from visiting. Just make sure you know what to expect before you go.
Where are the Parisians?
At the end of July, many Parisians leave for their summer homes, forcing bakeries to close and restaurants to display signs reading “Fermé” (closed).
However, this summer is different. With 11 million visitors expected for the 2024 Summer Olympics, many businesses and restaurants will remain open until August 11, before taking a short break until the start of the Paralympic Games on August 28.
Move
Parisian public transport is generally reliable, unless there is a strike. Negotiations are currently underway to prevent transport strikes during the Games.
On July 26, the day of the opening ceremony, a no-fly zone over Paris will prevent planes from taking off and landing for about six hours.
If the metro is crowded, consider renting a bike. There are around 20,000 Velib bikes in the city, many available on major street corners. With some roads closed to vehicles during the Games, it will be a safer time to cycle around the city.
For a quicker trip, motorcycle taxis are an exciting option. I once forgot my passport at home on my way to Spain. I hopped on the back of a motorbike and the driver maneuvered through traffic, waited for me to retrieve my passport, and took me back to the station before my train left.
Speaking the language
Parisian waiters, often considered rude, are much more approachable if you greet them first. Say “bonjour” and try to order in French. Courtesies like “s’il vous plaît” (please) and “merci” (thank you) also help.
This goes for any interaction with Parisians. It took me a while to figure out why the supermarket staff ignored me when I asked for help. Then I realized I hadn’t said hello first. A simple “bonjour” did the trick.
And never call a waiter “garçon” (boy). This is considered extremely rude.
Dining out
Eating out in Paris can be expensive, especially at one of the city’s 121 Michelin-starred restaurants. To save money, opt for lunch instead of dinner. Most restaurants offer a three-course set menu.
A tablea plate of cheeses, meats and fruit, is a cheap and quick option for lunch. If you have a sweet tooth, order a café gourmand, which is a coffee served with a selection of pastries, often for the same price as a dessert.
And don’t just ask for “water,” because you’ll be given expensive bottled water. Instead, ask for a “carafe d’eau” and you’ll be given cold tap water, which is free and perfectly drinkable in Paris. Also, bring a refillable bottle; there are free drinking fountains all over the city.
Staying Cool Without Air Conditioning
Paris is hot in the summer, but many old buildings and small hotels do not have air conditioning.
Museums usually maintain a pleasant temperature, at least for the sake of the artwork.
To beat the heat without electricity, look for places that are naturally cool. My favorite is Square du Vert-Galant, a small park at the tip of the Île de la Cité, where you can sit under a willow tree like Ernest Hemingway.
Alternatively, take a dip in the large fountain on Place Saint-Michel in the Latin Quarter. No one will bat an eyelid if you cool your hands in the historic fountain.
Escape from the city
Take a break from Paris and its crowds, without going too far.
Take the RER A from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile station to Saint-Germain-en-Laye and stroll through the park of the castle where Louis XIV was born. The viewpoint offers a breathtaking view of Paris.
The Bois de Vincennes, located in the eastern part of Paris, offers boat trips, hiking trails and children’s play areas.
Or take the metro line 1 to Château de Vincennes, an imposing medieval castle. From there, you can enter the Bois de Vincennes, a forest filled with lakes, hiking trails, and picnic areas, but without the weekday crowds.
